Nobu Berkeley Street

Glamour came of its own accord to Nobu’s first London restaurant on Park Lane, but here they decided to have it built in. David Collins’ lustred design glows almost as fiercely as the hibachi grill-top tables, where parties of the rich, famous & fabulous have been known to pick at the occasional scallop.

Mere mortals consider this slinky hot spot a ‘true treat’, & are regularly seduced by the glitz, the high-gloss thrills, the pounding music & the ‘electrically charged’ ambience. The food also looks & tastes irresistibly sexy – whether you are partaking of benchmark tomato ceviche, the ‘best black cod on the planet’, king-crab tempura or something gutsy from the wood-fired oven (perhaps octopus with yuzu, lemon & garlic). Sleek staff have also learned the rules of service with a smile. Meanwhile, the clever modern wine list effortlessly matches everything from zingy tuna tataki to brown rice miso paella. ‘Five stars all round’, concludes a fan.

Wine List: Although this isn’t an innovative list that challenges food & wine matching boundaries, it is still an excellent international collection. You can blow the budget on Mouton et al, but there is plenty around the £40 mark, & the adventurous will want to get stuck into the fine saké selection. Best Buy White 2009 Isabel Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, £40. Best Buy Red 2008 Shaw & Smith, Shiraz, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, £40.